Archive of ‘Tutorials’ category

Jewelry Storage

One of the last things I packed before we moved was my jewelry. I wear jewelry every. single. day. so the thought of going a week or more without any of it was not something I cared to experience.  In the new house, I had to find a way to organize my many long necklaces without them getting tangled, and I just needed them out of a box.  I decided to hang them in our master closet (which has more than enough wall space), which means only I would ever see them, let alone use them. Because of that, I decided my budget would be as small as possible, while still aiming for something cute and rustic.

I had an unused fence picket in the garage and a hack saw, so I got to work cutting the panel down to 32 inch lengths.  It made for 2 panels.  I had a box of white cup hooks on hand, and I picked up a tiny sampler can of the color stain I wanted to use.

I lightly sanded the two wood panels before staining them and banishing them out to the garage to dry.

Once dried, I measured in 2″ on each end of the first panel and placed a cup hook at each of those spots. From there, I placed a hook every 3-4″ between the two original hooks.

For the second panel, I placed them in between each of the top hooks, to leave room for the upper necklaces to hang down.

I then drilled pilot holes on each end of both pieces of wood, and nailed them into the wall. So far so good, and they are holding up nicely!

Necklace Hanger

If I had wanted to make them a little prettier, and was okay spending more money, I probably would have hit up hobby lobby to buy an assortment of vintage-inspired cabinet knobs, and would have used those to hang the necklaces off of.  The only downfall is that in addition to a greater expense, it would have allowed for fewer hooks, so each hook would have been more “cluttered” with jewelry for me.

As is, this project cost me about $2.70. Not too shabby! If you don’t have any of the items on hand, you should expect to spend about $2-3 on wood, $4 on cup hooks, and $2-3 on stain.


Wreath Re-Do

My Mom has a pair of wreaths that she’s had for years and years and years. They’ve been used outdoors for as long as I can remember, so I’m sure you can imagine how weather-worn they are.  Their berries are less “glossy red” and more “exposed foam” than they once were.
This year she proclaimed that it would be their last Christmas, and they were headed for the trash can in January.  I can’t stand to see things be thrown away that are still totally usable, so I told her “give me a chance to fix them up”. Afterall, the most expensive part of wreathes are the wreath themselves, and those don’t get too torn up in the weather, just the adornments do.  She agreed, and we headed to Hobby Lobby to pick up some goodies.
Our original plan was some sprigs of berries and other Christmas-y Goodness, and a bag of pinecones, but given how close we were to Christmas the pinecones were gone and the sprigs were well picked over. So we settled on two boxes of potpourri mix, and 2 remaining sprigs of berries and golden foliage.
WreathProject (7)The potpourri was $13.99 a box, but was on sale for 50% off, so for two boxes we still spent $13.99.
The large flowers were $6.99 each, but were 50% off, so we spent $6.99 total.
The berries were $1.99 each, and at 50% off, we spent $1.99 total.
And the golden foliage was $2.99 each, and at 50% off, we spent $2.99 total.
Our total spent was around $26 + tax.

At home, I took her wreaths down and brought them inside. They were missing some pinecones and had several areas with glue that was left behind, unable to be removed.

WreathProject (1)
I removed the bow and all of the other pinecones, berries, etc.
WreathProject (2)Then set to work fluffing all the branches.
WreathProject (3)
I used the large flower to cover the most obvious glue-spot. This wasn’t glued in place, but was wrapped to the “frame” using wire.

WreathProject (4)The rest of the adornments were attached using a hot glue gun and copious amounts of glue.
WreathProject (5)small

The result was a vast improvement from what they looked like previously, and for $26 + tax, we fixed up both wreaths, and had plenty of potpourri left over.

WreathProject (6)

After / Before


I feel a bit like Robin Hood lately…

…walking around the house with a big hunting bow in my hands. SO unlike me.
Patrick got this bow years and years ago, then loaned it to his ex-wfe and just recently got it back. It was pretty scuffed up and the arrow rest was busted, so it clearly needed some love to get it back into excellent condition again.
While I can’t restore it back to it’s original shine (due in part to the at-home-camo-job Patrick had done before, discussed below), I knew I could at least improve upon what was there with an all-over paint job.

paint camo

Years ago, Patrick decided that he wanted his once red and black bow to be camo. He attempted sanding it down to paint it, but got frustrated with the process and settled for the Do It Yourself Camo kits for bows and rifles, that are essentially comprised of Camo Tape.

The tape used on his bow was a soft finish tape, unlike duct tape, which actually helped when it came time to strip it all off. The quality of the tape was higher, thus the quality of the adhesive was higher, and it came off mostly in large pieces.

You can see the remaining adhesive left behind from the tape.

You can see the remaining adhesive left behind from the tape.

Once I got all the tape off, we tackled the remaining adhesive with nail polish remover. That cleaned it all up pretty quickly. It did remove some of the remaining paint, but most of it was gone from Patrick’s earlier attempt at sanding it down, so we went into this knowing it would need to be painted over.

IMG_9935With all of the tape removed, it was time to use a sanding sponge to scuff up all the remaining smooth areas of the bow, prepping it for a coat of primer.
IMG_9936Once all the surfaces were sufficiently scuffed, I went to work taping off all the strings and mechanisms of the bow, protecting them from overspray.  I also removed the broken arrow rest. At the same time, I taped over all the Hoyt logo panels, the sticker on the back-side of the bow stating it’s draw weight, etc, and all the metal casings for bolts that would later be re-attached.
With everything taped up, it was time for a coat of primer. I used what I generally stick to, Zinsser Cover Stain Primer. Two thin coats and we were ready for some paint!

IMG_9943For my paint colors, Patrick chose the Rustoleum Camo colors shown here

The next part of the process was pretty labor intensive. I did some research of camo painting, and found lots of tutorials. I watched several and took a few tips from each one in order to come to the style I preferred. I decided to go with a multicam camo, as I know that is Patrick’s preference. When you study multicam, you’ll notice that the majority of the space is either dark tan, or green.
The lighter tan is used sparingly, and generally in clusters while the dark brown is used sparingly, and is spread out, often overlapping the light tan. Since that was my first color to tackle, I started with a thin coat of tan spray paint.
(Some of the upcoming photos were taken with my ipad, as I was taping off the patterns upstairs).

While the tan paint was drying, I set to work making my stencils. I opted for male stencils instead of female, to allow for a more precise line around each color-area. To do this, I took a piece of wax paper and covered both sides of the paper with line after line of overlapping painters tape. I bought the thin tape b/c I was working around such small areas on the bow, but thicker tape would have worked even better.

With my sheet of tape finished, I took a sharpie and marked out shapes similar to camo patterns I found online.  Check out Pinterest or Google Images for samples of Multicam patterns. I then cut those out using a small pair of scissors. Since these were going to represent the light tan areas, I stuck with smaller sized pieces, in longer shapes and several coordinating small circular pieces to cluster around the larger stickers. With the tape on each side of the wax paper, each cut out section made 2 stickers, so I had coordinating shapes for each end of the bow. You just peel the sticker off the wax paper, place it on your surface and press firmly on all edges. One tip that a tutorial i found pointed out is that longer strips should go horizontally, not vertically.


With my stencil stickers in place, I took the bow back outside and gave it a once-over with dark brown.
While that was drying, I cut out the pattern pieces for my dark brown.  For the dark brown, I went slightly larger than the light tan pieces, and stuck to the same idea: longer, narrow pieces, some small circular pieces to cluster. I did, however, use a bit more creative license when it came to the shapes of these pieces.


With the brown dried and the stickers placed over the brown paint, I threw on a coat of black. Patrick wanted some black mixed in with the camo, but since we were using black for the surface color of the handle, I wanted to keep it minimal. Though I completely forgot to take photos of it, I did a few very small stickers, placed them over the dried black paint, and moved on to the next color; Green.

With a coat of the forest-green paint over the entire surface, I got to work cutting out the larger pieces from my tape-sheet. These were intended to be more as “background”, would layer over the white, brown and black, and would cover a good bit of the surface of the bow.  I was more relaxed in the shaping of these pieces, and in several I cut sections out of the middle of each piece.

With these stickers in place, I took the bow outside for it’s last coat of paint. This time I knew I needed some blending to my colors, so I got my tan, brown and green ready and went to work spraying short, light lines of paint across the surface. I went in a diagonal across the bow, overlaying each color until they blended together well.
At this point, Patrick was bouncing off the walls with excitement.

IMG_9952 IMG_9953
Once this coat was dried, it was time to slowly and carefully peel off the stickers to reveal the finished Camo pattern. I think I held my breath the entire time, but was pleased to see a great multicam hidden below all those layers of tape.


The white patch near the top is actually the black, which was a glossier paint than the Camo paints were, and is reflecting the light in the hallway.

At this point, we let all of the paint settle over night, so we would be ready to tackle the rest of it in the morning.

My initial plan the next morning was to tape over the camo and spray the handle, edging and backing all solid black. However, after seeing the camo, I was worried that the tape might pull up some of the paint.  With how many layers of paint you put on with this method, you end up with some pretty prominent “edges” to each color-area, and I was concerned those would get caught by the tape and be pulled up.
So instead, I taped off every other area of the bow and did 2 thin coats of clear-coat over the camo to help seal it. When taping off the handle, I took care to place a piece of paper over each of the taped-up Hoyt panels, so they wouldn’t accidentally get peeled off when it’s time to remove the tape from the handle before the final coat of black paint.

IMG_9959Once the clear coat had had about 2 hours to cure (according to the bottle of spray paint, it was dry to touch in 15 minutes, workable in 2 hours), I set to work removing tape from all the white areas, and prepped to tape over my camo facing.

As it got later in the day, the temperatures dropped, so I had to start being careful about how/where my paint was drying to keep it above the 50 degree mark stated on the bottle. But check out the awesome sunset I got to enjoy while working out there!


I threw a quick coat of black on 1/3 of the bow, let it dry for 20 minutes, then on the 2nd 3rd and let that dry for 20 minutes, then on the final 3rd and let that dry for 20 minutes. At that point I called it a night and brought it in to cure overnight. I removed the tape from the camo areas before going to bed.

In the morning, I did a quick touch-up coat of black in areas that I noticed needed more blending, but made sure to keep the over-spray away from the camo areas.  Once the black was all sufficiently cured, we put a coat of clear on one side of the bow and let it dry for several hours. Then we flipped it over and did a coat of clear on the other side, and let that cure for several hours.

At that point, we were all done and ready for use! Time to re-install the sight, and install the new Whisker Biscuit I bought Patrick as part of his Christmas gift 😉

I wish I had been more intentional with the photos I took in the beginning so I would have had a better before/after shot, but you get the idea.

IMG_9975  IMG_9977IMG_9966



Project: Anthropologie Inspired Stocking Holders

This year I knew we needed to either buy, find, or make some stocking holders for the new stockings we’ve been making to use this Christmas, but I hadn’t been able to find anything I loved, and with $20 as the average price tag of *each* stocking holder, I had to really love it to spend $120.00 + tax on a set of 6 (5 for us, and 1 extra for a future addition).
With the new stockings being white and gold, I wanted something that would tie in well with that color scheme, and I wanted to stick to our semi-rustic decor theme we’ve been keeping with. So I settled on something kind of winter/woodlands styled, and decided to go with woodland animals. I was thinking animals like a fox, moose, deer, etc, but the only thing I found for sale was at Anthropologie, which they call their “Woodland Stocking Holder”.

While beautiful, their color options are limited to brown and bronze, which looked suspiciously similar to one another, and their animals are limited to this which looks like the cross between a deer and a ram (someone correct me and tell me the real name of this animal, please!), a pug and a Scottie dog… neither of which were appealing to my woodlands theme. And at $38 a pop, I knew I couldn’t talk myself into a $228+Tax splurge that I didn’t even love in the first place. . I also knew I wanted all 6 to be different, so I decided at that point that it was time to formulate plan be: Making our own.
In passing conversation, I told Lily what I intended to make and she loudly declared that her animal would be a unicorn. Also not keeping with my woodland theme, but I’ll work with it because at least it’s something she’ll love.
I recalled seeing little plastic animals at Michael’s before, so Patrick and I ran out to price them. They ranged from $3.00 to $11.00 depending on the size of animal you purchased. We chose 6 that we felt matched our theme well (one of which was a horse, since they didn’t have a unicorn). Our total spent was around $32.00 including tax. (We also used a 50% off one item coupon on two of the animals, so be sure to check your Michael’s coupons online if you try this tutorial).
After that, we headed out to Target. I’d heard they carry plain stocking holder plates which you can dress up however you want. They are sold in sets 2 of for $10.00, and come in 3 colors (A silver, an ORB color, and a coppery/gold color). They were on sale for $9.00 per set of 2, but even so, buying 3 sets was going to add another $30.00 or more to our over-all price, which I wasn’t thrilled about, so I scouted the Cartwheel app, and sure enough they had 10% off all stocking holders! I also checked out our Shopkick app and discovered we had a collective 5,000+ kicks sitting there waiting to be cashed in. We had to get a little creative with how we cashed them in, but in the end we wound up with $24.00 worth of Target Gift cards for free. In the end, our total for the 6 stocking holder bases was $0.30 + tax. Can’t beat that!
We headed home to start on our project, and grabbed a can of Rustoleum Champagne Mist on the way past the home supply store.
When we got home, this is what our haul looked like
sh2Since the animals are a matte finish paint, and the Rustoleum paint is supposed to be prime+paint in one,  I didn’t bother using a different primer on them at all, and just took straight to spraying them down.  2 extra-light coats was all it took, and some time in the sun. Maybe it was just me, but this paint stayed tacky for a VERY long time. I finally gave up and did a clear coat over them using Clear Acrylic Spray, and that finally took care of the tackiness issue.

Before I could get too far on the painting, I did have one issue to tackle: The horse that wanted to be a unicorn.
I considered using some wood putty to form the horn, letting it cure, then using e6000 to glue it on, but i ended up taking a thin dowel and shaped it into a horn using a combination of sand paper and a pencil sharpener, then glued it on using e6000.
sh4Once the glue was completely cured, the unicorn took a turn in our spray-tanning booth and came out a lovely shade of gold.
I did the same process, spraying the bases gold. Once everything was completely painted, clear coated, and cured, I used a small dab of e6000 glue on the bottom of each foot… err, paw? hoof? whatever the case may be… and then pressed them into the base and let them cure overnight.
The next morning, we were excited to see our new additions on our mantle!


The photos of them on the mantle show the color more true-to-life (the ones below are reflecting the red in our wood floors), but here are closeups of each animal.

elkPatrick is the Elk.
mooseI’m the moose (one of my favorite animals)
wolfBrendan is the wolf.
unicornLily is the unicorm.
bearHayden is the bear.
And any future addition will be the raccoon. 🙂

All in all, this project cost us around $40.
Animals: $32
Paint: $7
Clear Coat: $0 (already had)
Bases: $2.30
Total: $41.30
For a total of $6.88 each!! Not too bad!

Now the prices we paid, we wouldn’t expect most families to be able to get that same deal because of the gift cards, etc, we had through shopkick… but if anything, it’s a great reminder to sign up for those programs! Get you shopkick app and get your 45 points everytime you walk into Target! Someday you’ll use it for something cool!

Tutorial & Pattern : Christmas Stocking


Last year it was time for new Christmas stockings for the kids. H was staying with her Mom on Christmas, so I knew I needed – at a bare minimum – two stockings done by Christmas Morning.
I went out hunting for fabric and wanted something different, that I knew I would like for several years. I spied some cute gold fabric with sequins on it, and pictured it with a white fur cuff at the top.  I loved the look, but the fabric was a jersey knit which means that as it was loaded up with presents, it would stretch out.
I quickly found some quilted batting type material, and thought that would make a cute lining for the knit fabric, and would protect it from stretching. I bought enough of all 3 fabrics to make 6 stockings: One for each kid, one for each parent, and a spare for any future Spivey Baby we might have.
Prior to Christmas, I was able to knock out two stockings, but couldn’t find the type of monograms I wanted for the cuffs. I didn’t want to do full names, but just a first initial for each. I decided to forego an initial for that year and just put small tags on each stocking with names.

stockings on IG

This year it’s time to crank out the rest, and I want them initialed before Christmas. Of course, I pitched the home-made pattern I had made for last year. I can’t fathom why I would have done that and I’ve been kicking myself all week for it… but I was able to quickly make another using measurements from last years stockings.

This week I set to cutting out the pieces for each stocking, which is probably one of the most time consuming parts, so I thought I would share the pattern and how to assemble them for anyone interested.  It’s very simple, quick, and you can fancy them up however you please! Not including fabric cutting time, I timed how long it too me to make one stocking, start to finish. Without distractions, it took me 27 minutes and 10 seconds to do one full stockings. Granted, I’ve made a few at this point and know how to do it, but that does give you an idea as to how simple this project is.


Before we get started, I’m just going to keep it real and say “don’t judge my table”. This is my $5 craigslist find that is used and abused for all of our messiest crafts, to save our prettier surfaces from the wear and tear. I promise you this isn’t what my real furniture looks like! 😉

First things first. Print out the Pattern located HERE.
Cut it out and assemble as directed.
(Note: Since I had to use a lining b/c my outer stocking fabric was stretchy, there were a few extra steps. Those steps will be noted in Blue with a ** around them. If you don’t use a lining and instead just do one layer, please disregard those steps)

Lay out your fabric and cut out 2 pieces of your cuff fabric, and 2 pieces of your stocking material.
**If you have to (or just choose to) use a lining like I used, cut out 2 of those too.**

stockings before

Lay stocking pieces with right sides together.

**If using lining, pin lining to “wrong” sides of fabric, then take each set of fabric pieces and place them “right sides” together.**


Using your sewing machine, run a straight stitch around the sides and bottom of the stocking, leaving the top open. Your stitch should be about 1/4-1/2″ away from the edge.


Take Cuff pieces and place right-sides together.


Sew along both “long” edges, making a tube.


Turn stocking right side out.
Determine where on your stocking you want the cuff to start. Mark that line using pins. Leaving cuff wrong-side out, slide down over the stocking, lining up one end of the “tube” slightly higher than your marked line on the stocking. Pin in place.


Using your sewing machine, sew a straight stitch along your marked line.
Now, when you turn your cuff right side out and fold it into itself, it might be a bit bulky… This next step is optional, but i had better luck when I did go ahead and do this (and it only took a few extra seconds.). Inside of the line you already stitched along the long edges of the cuff, sew a second line. It will be at an angle, making the open side of the cuff slightly more narrow than the part that is sewn onto the stocking.  You can see better below, what I mean.


Flip cuff up, revealing right-side.

Fold excess down into the stocking until you have a 5″ tall cuff (or larger if you prefer).  Once measured, pin, turn cuff down over stocking, and sew a running stitch along the bottom edge of the cuff to the hidden seam allowance inside of the stocking.  This will keep it from unfolding when gifts are removed.

Flip cuff back up, revealing your finished stocking!

IMG_9590 copy

You can also use a small piece of fabric to add a loop to hang your stocking on.
From here you can embelish how you want. I have a friend who is embroidering some initials for ours, and those will be added soon. In the meantime, I’m just glad the stockings themselves are done!

I hope you enjoy the tutorial and pattern. If you make a stocking, please share a link to your blog post about it in the comments here. I always love finding new blogs to read. Or if you Instagram it, please tag @Jackie_reivey so I can see it there! Happy Holidays!

Project: Ticket Shadowbox

Like most couples, Patrick and I have a collection of ticket stubs and random memorabilia from our past dates. With this months date-a-thon (which I’ll be posting about a bit later), that stack is getting bigger – quite literally – by the day.
I’m sure you’ve all seen the posts on Pinterest of how to make a shadowbox for our tickets and what not, but frankly I’m not much of a scrap-booking kind of girl, and I really like my quick-and-easy printable projects as they fit so conveniently into my schedule.


I put this together in Photoshop and have been using it for probably two months now, so I thought I’d share for anyone else who is interested.

Simply print at home on standard printer paper or card-stock, slip it into the back of a shadowbox frame, and start inserting your tickets.  You can use a drill to cut a slit in the top of the shadowbox for easy insertion of your tickets, but we chose not to, in case we want to re-purpose the frame in the future.

Download it here